Cathy with: Question about Feed for Success for my Paso Fino

Cathy K.

Hi Dr. Dan,
I just purchased your Feed for Success products and have some
questions.  My 13 year old mare has been on Safe Choice and Equi-Shine
along with your Bug Check and Red Cal, previously before last June she
was on a sweet feed along with equi-shine for 7 years.  She is an easy
keeper, a paso fino, 14.2 hands weighing in at approximately 840 lbs.
I see that your directions mention combining the Just Add Oats to the
oats but I was wondering if I can also add  the "Weight Check Oil" to
that mixture or does the oil need to be added to each feeding
separately.  She gets fed her grain twice a day, morning and evening,
and is on grass all day long this time of year (I live in Wisconsin),
along with some hay too.  I board her so she is fed by the barn
people, and I want to make it easy for them to feed her so I am a bit
concerned about them having to add the oil to each feeding. If that is
the case, I wish there was some kind of pump on the gallon of Weight
Check Oil.  Should I take her off the Equi-Shine or will this be okay
with your products? Also how do you suggest that I get her accustomed
to the Feed for Success program as far as proportions to the Safe
Choice in the beginning, half and half to begin with or what?  I know
lots of questions but I don't want her to colic or anything like that
with so many changes in her feed.
Thanks, Cathy

Hi Cathy,

In making the switch, some are able to switch 100% ("cold turkey")right away and others not. Half and half is a good starting point— or just at whatever amount they will eat at beginning and adjust accordingly. Basically what you are doing is providing same amount but just dividing between the two. If it seems they prefer a little less of "the new"… then you will start at a point that they like and gradually increase every 3 days or so and work through this— backing back down to last amount that worked and back up more slowly if needed. It can be a process, so hopefully your caretakers will help you well through this switch. It is only worth it at the end— which is in fact a "new beginning" for your horse!  I will also add that I have never had the first colic episode because of switching to oats- even switching "cold turkey". (Be sure RED CAL is always provided free-choice though!)

As for the Weight Check Oil, it's best to use at each feeding because it makes everything "stick" but it is not required. The key is just make sure they are getting it.  I'm sorry, but I just haven't been able to find a pump that works well. Something you could use is the scoop from Bug Check which will hold the exactly full 2 oz daily amount required for a 1000 lb horse.

I hope this helps. And please keep me posted on the switch.

Dr. Dan

Cathy asks about what type of hay for these horses

Dear Dr. Dan,
We are in Wisconsin, and have a client in Florida who has recently moved her horses down there and was having trouble keeping weight on her hot mare.  She started feeding a pelleted formula, and now the mare is so hot she cannot ride her.  The feed store employees told her not to feed oats unless she is feeding alfalfa hay, which she cant at $25 per bale!  She is feeding coastal hay, and that is about all she can find down there.  Will the oats keep weight on her mare?  Does she need to feed a different type of hay?  Is there any products made for “hot” horses to calm them?  Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hello Cathy,

She just needs our feeding program.  The comment from the feed store guy is because the oats need balancing.. the "Just Add Oats", the RED CAL and the Weight Check Oil oil do that (naturallly!).

Bermuda Hay is awful! It is more apt to cause impaction/colic than any other But there are other hays to pick from, but as they already know that are just pricey. Just so you know for future reference, personally I have always like timothy and orchard at 50/50.

And of course NO commercial feed.

The program again will help with the weight especially the Weight Check Oil (whether weight on or weight off) and as it says on the label…. CALM Calories!

Oh yea, here is an easy direct link to my "Feed Oats" article in case you missed before:

Hope this helps and thanks for asking! Hope all is going great for you guys!

Check out these helpful links:

The Natural Horse Vet Magazine:

What To Feed Your Horse?

Dr. Dan's Library:

The Natural Vet On The Net:

Shelly with a weight management question for her 1/2 Arab Pinto…

My 1/2 arab pinto has gained a little too much weight due to me feeding her a high fat grain.

I have since then reduced the amount and changed the type of grain to a less fat and partial pellet diet. She now gets only timothy hay instead of the alfalfa and timothy she used to eat.

However, she is still too fat and I don't want to starve her. I love her very much and want to find out more about the natural solutions that are available for my girl

Shelly H.

Hi Shelly!

If you haven't yet had the chance please review the information at:

There is videos/audios/articles and lots of them if you really want to do your due diligence. You will then have a lot of info you will want to share with others!!! :-)

I really suggest you follow the feeding program to the "T"— especially  NO commercial/pelleted feed of any type.

OATs along with our Just Add Oats, Weight Check Oil (works for weight-on or weight-off issues)
and provide our RED CAL free-choice (no horse should not have RED CAL "available" to them!)

Our Bug Check is something that should be considered for added support— it is more than
"just" a "Bug product" and is very economical and recommended for year-round- just for all the
natural goodness that is in it.

Health Check for the added support of a strong "antioxidant" type product should be considered.
(If Needed- Joint Check is Health Check with added "helpful-to-the-joint-type" ingredients". The antioxidants
will help get rid of the junk that may have built up becuase of the commercial feed etc.

And consider our Gut Check supplement for a short while, to help get the gut and digestive system over-the-hump.

At the very least, you should consider the instructions/components of our feeding program to "Feed For Success"

Thousands have enjoyed a new horse following the above.

Also, if forage needs to be provided- Timothy is Ok.

Thanks for asking Shelly! Keep me posted!

Dr. Dan

Toll free office: 877-873-8838
Don't forget our Pet & People products too!

Check out these helpful links:

The Natural Vet Blog,Search for answers:

The Natural Horse Vet Magazine:

What To Feed Your Horse?

Dr. Dan's Library:

The Natural Vet On The Net:

Judy with some feeding questions for her horses…

Hi Dan: 

I have a couple of questions for you. Jim brought me your CD from the Ohio Equine Extravaganza and that might have answered these questions, but I can’t find it! It is awful getting old!  Anyway, sorry to bother you with something I might could have researched for myself, but I need your help.

I have two horses with the same problem, but not for the same reasons. They both need to gain weight. One is four years old and one is three years old.

First, the four year old. He is at Amy and Jason Stefanic’s for training and showing. He is being shown in the trail pleasure classes and is doing very well. He is a stud, but we have never let him breed. He is being fed a grain that Amy is having made in Kentucky, which seems to be equivalent to __________, which is what I feed.

He is super hyper. If he were a young boy, I would diagnose him as having ADHD and needing Ritalin. I believe that is why we cannot put weight on him. He is never still or calm except when he is being ridden. I have had bloodwork and a fecal exam done on him and he is in superior health, according to the guidelines they follow. I do not want to put him on a “calming” drug.

I would like to know if there is anything that might help him calm down naturally in order for him to gain some weight. One of the vets  said that he may have a “higher than normal” testosterone level, causing him to be so active. His coat is beautiful and his ribs aren’t showing, but we just can’t get him to gain any weight.

The second horse is a three year old who is extremely calm and going through what I call “the teenage years”. His sire is Remington East, whose offspring seem to go through this phase during their second or third year. He is also very healthy – ribs are not showing, but I cannot put any weight on him. He is being fed ___________ and I am also giving him a small amount of beet shreds, soaked in water. He has gained some weight since I started the beet shreds, but I am not giving him too much of those, since I want to be careful about feeding him too much.

I believe his problem is just a “growing” one, but I would like for him to put on a little weight without my having to overfeed him.

Any and all suggestions will be most appreciated.

Sincerely, Judy M.

Good to hear from you Judy!

First,  I would get rid of the beet pulp … it just "sucks" nutrition right out. There is an article on our website
About it in the library section of our website.

Second, I really hate commercial feed of any kind and especially the one you mentioned. Personally i lost a whole show season as a result of that product and given according to how they suggested to the "t". They weighed each horse prior and they went south fast when fed. Lost weight etc etc. 

Anyway, please go to I would follow the advise I have there to the "t" or at least as close as possible.  Pay particular attention to our Weight Check Oil.  Both of these horses should get more than maintenance (2 oz daily). You can give up to 8 oz daily. They will gain with it alone at the higher levels. They will not at maintenance level. 

Finally I would suggest our Bug Check. Many actually use it for calming.  I have actually gotten a number of children off ritalin with some of the ingredients therein so its funny you mentioned such.  Enjoy the articles, videos, cds etc. on the site. 

Thanks For Asking!

What To Feed Your Horse?


Dr. Dan's Library:

The Natural Vet On The Net:





Jean asks a Just Add Oats/Cushings question…

I have a 34 yr old who has been on cushings med for 5 yrs. He is doing great on your  Weight Check oil and Gut Check.

I want to see if I can switch him over to Just Add Oats without feeding the oats. If you do not recommend the just add oats, what vitamin and min supplement should I give. I have been using Select one, but use Just Add Oats for my other younger horse and would like to use just one supplement if possible for both. I also feed the both the Red Cal

love it all.


Absolutely Jean ….any horse can have Just Add Oats regardless of what else is feed. 

I also have dozens and dozens of cushings, metabolic, IR horses etc. that DO get oats by the way.. it is the most natural grain . The commercial feed, in my opinion, is part of the cause of cushings with all the junk they contain.

Thanks for asking Jean


Makes any grain mix complete- especially formulated for oats!

Contains biotin, calcium, choline, zinc, iron, folic acid, manganese, magnesium, lactobacillus acidophilus and more enzymes PLUS kelp!

answering Nancy with “what to feed my horse questions”…

I would like your opinion of the incorporation of Just Add Oats to my *feeding program" below in conjunction with quality grass hay:

1/2 lb alfalfa cubes  1/4 lb beet pulp  1/4 lb whole oats  1/8 lb black oil sunflower seeds 1/8 lb freshly ground flax seed 1T natural sea salt 1/4 c apple cider vinegar dried organic 7 herb mix for winter feeding of horses. (fed wet)

Nancy A.

Just Add Oats would be a great addition. BUT I do have several major suggestions otherwise:

Personally, I wouldn't feed beet pulp however due to the fact that it literally just "sucks the nutrition out" as it passes through and is only fiber anyway so hay is cheaper. Also wouldn't feed sunflower seeds…our Weight Check Oil is a much more balanced source of omega fatty acids. It is full of natural vit E, plant sterols, unsaponifiables etc. etc. Just much much better overall. I wouldn't give flax to a guinea pig.. see the article as to why not in the library section. Of all sources of fat it is the most likely to go rancid PLUS MANY other reasons mentioned in this article. (library section).. AND with the Weight Check oil it just wouldn't be needed anyway.

Our Red Cal is a far better source of salt plus (provides) more. It is from an ancient sea bed not the current ocean which has so much potential to be contaminated with mercury and more. Also any source of salt must be fed FREE CHOICE (see the article on salt and minerals page 21 of the magazine). With the free choice RED Cal they will drink more water so a winter mix isn't needed AND it has other herbs in it anyway (grape seed etc.) Sorry to be so blunt about all this.. But You will be much happier with a better program. Thousands are and have been.

PLEASE go to where it is all outlined. Also enjoy the many articles etc. at as well as previous questions answer and success stories at  Again thanks and hope I didn't "bust your bubble". It sounds like you are a VERY conscientious horse person. Thank you for the opportunity to help. Thanks for asking!


Dr Dan

Diane asks about older horse needing to put weight on…

Hi Dr. Dan,

I have a 25yr old mare that in the winter loses weight(we live in MN) We've noticed lately that her hind end is really getting thin and I was wondering what you recommend for her routine.  We give her rolled oats morning and night. She eats hay too.  Please advise so I can order soon. We haven't even had the coldest part of winter yet.  

Thanks, Diane

Hello Diane,

Oats are not enough nor is hay. To those oats I would add our Just Add Oats supplement and our Weight Check Oil (start at 2 oz per day but increase up to 8 oz depending on how she does). Whatever amount of oats now giving I would slowly double. I would also give our Red Cal free choice. This is all explained at too by the way.

As added support you could add our Gut Check supplement to help them get more "goodie" out of what they do eat.  

Thanks for asking!

Kris asks about his “itchy horse”

My horse is itchy all year long – especially scratching his face area, neck and legs.  This year I find it to be worse.  His diet consists of Nutrena Triumph; liquid vit. E, hoof biotin, a probiotic, Choice Red Cal Salt and 2 tbsp. iodized salt.

Any suggestions would be most appreciated.  

Thank you.  


No problem glad to help…

First stop the iodized salt. They don't need it with Red Cal! ALso go to and follow the "Feed For Success" program to the "T". (Just Add Oats and Weight Check oil and the Red Cal…stop the commercial feed and the other supplements)

Add for immune support  the Aller Check and to help get the "junk" accumulated over the years out of the system add the Health Check supplement.

I would extremely surprised if this didn't at least GREATLY help.

Thanks for asking!

Paula with cribbing/wind sucking question…

Hi I have just been told about your website and had a question about my horse who is a cribber/wind sucker.

I am familiar with the use of herbs and minerals to get horses healthier but have not had much luck with stopping my mares cribbing. Have been able to reduce it for short periods of time with silver lining herbs.   My mare "Dot" is 11 years old, a thoroughbred who has never been raced. Was un-broke when we got her at the age of 5. Grew up on a 150 acre pasture in Panguitch, Utah. Currently resides in Scottsdale, AZ. Has problems with bloating when not exercised regularly and wind sucks. She loves water, will nicker for water at competitions and drinks very well while traveling. Always looking for something to eat. Does well when on free choice grass round bale. Currently eating 2/3 alfalfa, 1/3 bermuda grass. Other than that she is healthy, fit, her hair coat is shiny, joints, tendons, feet are healthy and strong.  

She performs well, has a lot of try and will do anything you ask of her. Has won two world titles in mounted shooting.   She just looks a bit uncomfortable or always looking for something. Would like to know how to help her be more content when not working. She is most content when being ridden.   I would greatly appreciate any advice or help you could give me to help this awesome horse. Thank you for your time.

Paula B.

I have helped many with our products… not all, but many. Sounds like nutritionally, an "over haul" would be helpful, though given the bloating etc. my advise is to follow the feeding advise at to the "T"  

I would also put the horse on our Bug Check product for added support. Don't let the name fool you. The ingredients are multifunctional and have helped many issues including cribbing.

Thanks for asking.
Please let me know your results.


“Winter Woes” for your horses, or not?

* * * * * * * *  * * * * * * * * * **


 The answer to winter woes is easy…simply move south!
 It worked for me, believe it or not – as a child I used to live in New Jersey! My southern accent now assures those who hear it that times have changed!
 Honestly, times (i.e. the weather) have changed for the north as well. It just doesn’t seem as wintry anymore. Of course, my friends in Vermont would disagree!
 Around the beginning of January the temperature is about 35 degrees below. I honestly can’t imagine such temperatures, but the natives tolerate it well, and so do their many gaited Mountain Horses.
 Why? Partially because the breed is a hardy one, but perhaps mostly because people are prepared – and well before the cold sets in.
 The most obvious preparation is adequate shelter for their horses. Despite what you might think, a windbreak of any sort and a roof over their heads is all that is needed for most. Only those who simply have never been exposed to extreme weather should have a problem. This brings up the subject of acclimation.
 Common sense would tell one to gradually introduce our four legged friends to any extreme weather. Never just “throw them out” into the cold unless they are used to it. Fortunately nature generally prepares all horses for winter. Heavy coats, a little extra fat, and usually all will well.
 Aside from shelter and acclimation, winter nutrition is critical. In most situations hay, alone, will not suffice. Of course, plenty of good hay is a must – even before the onset of the cold. Before the grass is even gone you should start feeding hay. This assures your horses put on the fat. I don’t mean belly- busting fat, which is not good for any beast, but just pleasantly plump. I would define pleasantly plump as where you can’t see any ribs showing, and they just look “a little” fat. At any time of year other than winter, one should be able to feel but not see the ribs.

 In addition to hay, another way to add a little extra fat is to feed a little extra fat. The key to this fat is feeding the “right fat”, which is often hard to find in horse feeds today. Many feeds contain cheap corn or vegetable oil, which are processed and/or hydrogenated in some fashion. These oils are cheaper for the manufacturer and, honestly, are more stable (which is important to the stores if feed is stored for any length of time), but are awful for any horse’s body (or ours, our pets’, or that of any living species).
 Our Weight Check Oil Is GMO-FREE!Also, when fats are processed, the “goodie” is filtered out and sold elsewhere. Natural, unprocessed, GMO free (if available) oils still contain the “goodies”. “Goodies” include such natural preservatives as vitamin E, tocopherols, and sterols, which are fairly stable, albeit more costly. In my humble opinion, the real cause of obese horses – summer, winter, or any time – in what we often call “insulin resistant” or “metabolic” horses – is processed fats. They cause these conditions by interfering with the exchange of nutrients at the cellular membrane level, disallowing the good nutrition to enter and the waste to exit.
 The key to avoiding this situation is good fats, not processed or hydrogenated fats. Personally, I like soy bean oil for horses. Soy beans provide “calm calories”, as opposed to the “hot calories” that one might get from corn oil. By the weigh- I mean way(!)- most of the “weight builder” types of products that one sees on the market have these processed fats as the main ingredients. Please read the labels!
 Check the labels good and try your best to avoid feeds with corn and molasses. For instance, corn is essentially all calories, effectively just all sugar. Just like sweet feed, corn is definitely not a healthy diet – even in the dead of winter. Granted, heat is produced from the burning of the calories, but corn has the same glycemic index as sugar, and obviously the molasses in sweet feed is sugar. I recently read about top trainer who actually recommends molasses for its nutritional benefits. I am sorry, but I totally disagree! Anything that causes a spike in sugar (even eating a candy bar) causes a subsequent spike in insulin. These spikes of highs and lows lead to insulin resistance, which also creates other metabolic issues: the laminitis prone, the cushinoid- all those fat horses that are on the edge of illness.
 our "Just Add Oats" SupplementRather than corn or sweet feed, I prefer to feed oats. Add to these oats the good fats and always a vitamin/mineral supplement, and you have the best feed for any time of the year. For a little more fat in the winter, add a little more oil. Also, the nice thing about using oats rather then premixed feeds is that you can vary the amount given to each individual horse, and if you are adding the vitamin/mineral supplement to the amount of oats needed, each horse gets all of the vitamins, minerals, etc. they need each day.
 Let me ask you a question. What is the first thing you typically do for an easy keeper horse? The obvious thing is to cut back on the feed. The problem with that is, if you simply just cut back on a premixed feed, then obviously the horse will not be getting the necessary amounts of vitamins, minerals, etc… The subsequent lack of vitamins, minerals, enzymes, etc… then only leads to more metabolic issues.
 It also goes without saying that water, not ice, is critical for winter health. If you live in an area where water freezes, heat it. Your local supplies store can advise you on what specifically is needed for that problem. Where I live freezing does occur, but only for a day or two at a time. We simply carry an ice breaker, like an ax, on the feed cart.
 It is hard for me to discuss winter without mentioning spring. Good hay, fed all winter long, often has high potassium levels – after all, good hay is generally heavily fertilized right? You know, the 10-10-10 stuff? Nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus. What happened to the rest of minerals on the Periodic Table we studied in high school? Something seems to be missing here. Back to the main point, too much potassium, in a short period of time, without chloride to balance it is deadly for a horse.
 RED CAL in 25 LB Bags, say no to salt blocks!This brings up a significant need for salt ( i.e sodium chloride) and plenty of it – and preferably not in the form of a block! Blocks should be outlawed for horses, in my opinion. They simply cannot get what they need fast enough. Horses need loose granular salt, preferably organic (not kiln dried and bleached and dead, like typical salt), and free choice – all they can eat – always available.
 I also prefer natural minerals, not processed, or other industries’ leftovers.
 Good, soft, readily available calcium will help balance the excess phosphorus from fertilizers. I’m sure you’re aware that most of our grains today are heavily fertilized, as well. If we could only find a good inexpensive source of ORGANIC fertilizers, I truly believe our horses would be much healthier. I suspect many of you already have the answer to this problem piled up next to your barn. Now that’s a bunch of #$%*! linkA salt deprived horse, such as one that only has access to a block, when springtime comes may over-consume the lush green grass, causing him to eat too much potassium. Understand that sodium and potassium are very similar substances. In fact, it is difficult for the horse to actually tell the difference. Here you could face a situation where the horse does not even desire sodium, or salt, and salt is very critical to things such as water consumption. The lack of water consumption, combined with dry hay can lead to impaction. Free choice, loose, natural salt and minerals simply have to be available at all times. (our product for this purpose is called RED Cal)
 One other nutrient, frequently overlooked in winter, is beta carotene. Hay simply won’t provide it. If you want cycling early for breeding you need to consider supplementing it (Our Weight Check Oil contains beta carotene).
 Play the "Worm Shots" GameGeriatric horses and younger horses, in the winter, may require special attention (I refer to younger horses as horses under three). Parasites, especially in the winter, when horses are more stressed, can be a real issue, particularly for younger horses. Geriatric horses, honestly, are pretty much resistant to parasites by the time they reach their ripe old age. But if winter is especially harsh, stress can bring out the worst in all situations. My advice with regards to deworming has always been to obtain fecal exams prior to worming, rather than the simple indiscriminant administration of worm medication on a time schedule regardless of age.
 With this in mind, fecal exams in late fall for all of your horses would be an important consideration, followed by the appropriate dewormer, if parasites are present. Frankly, I suggest fecal exams on horses under 3 years of age every two or three months, and adult horses every four to five. Although it may be more trouble then simply giving a tube of dewormer, in my opinion it’s a much healthier alternative for both the horse and the environment. Parasite resistance from overuse of chemical dewormers is a serious and growing problem.
 Download Feed For Success BulletinA basic and commonsense approach to good health, with perhaps a few twists, is the best approach to the woes potentially brought on by the winter months. You can hardly beat the combination of proper shelter, diet, attention to the most fundamentally necessary minerals as well as supplements (which may simply not be available in sufficient levels in the average horse’s diet), and appropriate deworming to stave off potential problems brought on by the stresses of cold weather.
 It is cheaper than moving south if you're not already there!

 Dr. Dan Signature

 Dr. Dan Moore, DVM

* * * * * * * * * * *  * * * * * * * * * **

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Marci with questions for her 25-year-old horse…

I've just gotten my horse with me in KY from a farm in northern NJ, and he had started to lose weight at that farm before I brought him down here.  He needs to gain around 200 pounds.  The lady from NJ said he was finicky and didn't eat hay very well anymore and that also he was picky about his grain.  I must say that since he's been in KY (about a week), he's eaten everything we've given him. The woman from NJ said the vet had said that he wasn't absorbing his food well.

Also last winter the vet said he had a grade IV heart murmur.  He was given 1/2 dose Winstrol and at pasture over the summer he gained his weight back.

However he started losing again when it started getting cold in NJ.  Since he started losing weight again, the NJ vet advised me to bring him down here and not wait until winter.  In the last six weeks before coming he's been given two doses of Winstrol.  So far down here he is bright, alert, interested in his surroundings and appears quite normal except for needing to gain 150-200 pounds.  

Do you have any suggestions as to how to optimally feed him now? The person he's boarded with now is a small animal vet.  She's giving him alfala/orchard grass mix in the stall and orchard grass hay when he's out.  We're in the process of converting him from Triple Crown Senior with a top dressing of 6% extruded fat to I believe she wants to put him on Purina probably senior of some kind and also give him 16% extruded fat pellets.  I also want to get him on chondroitin and glucosamine with MSM.  Have you any advice for me on the best way to get him to a healthy weight?  I've been told that if we can get him to maintain a healthy weight, his heart murmur may become a non-issue.  

Thank you in advance.
Marci J.
Oh, by the way, my horse is large QH/TB.

Follow our "Feed For Success" feeding program to the "T" but give 4 to 8 oz per day of the Weight Check Oil until he gains back what weight needed. Consider our Gut Check to get more "goodie" out of what he does eat. Our Joint Check too is unlike anything on the market. You should have a new horse soon.

Thanks for asking!


Connie asks about horse showing signs of IR/Cushings

Dr. Dan… I recently discovered that my horse is showing signs of IR/Cushings.

I've gotten on the web and see so much conflicting information. I ordered your RedCal + Magnesium but wanted to know how much oats do you feed a IR/Cushing's horse? I'm reading that they should be pulled off grain but you're saying feed oats? She's on burmuda grass and getting ready for coastal hay to come in (low sugar type.

Your thoughts?
Connie C.

Please consider follow the advise at to the "T". That would mean gradually switching to the same volume of oats that you are now feeding of grain. To the oats, add our Just Add Oats supplement and Weight Check oil.  Continue the Red Cal (hi-mag version).  If your horse has a cresty neck and really overweight, then add the Critical Care I/R formula. The later is pricey but there is nothing like it and fortunately only a tub or two is generally needed to take the crest away.

Oh yea, I really don't like bermuda or coastal hay. I don't care what anyone says ..orchard grass or timothy are better.  And don't worry about the sugar in hay. Its not that big a deal.

Enjoy your new horse and thanks for asking!

Dr. Dan


Carrie, asks about Weight Check Oil for her mare and shares about success with dealing with scratches this past summer…

Hi Dr. Dan,  

My mare is going to be 29 in March.  I am having trouble keeping weight on her.  Right now she is getting 5 pounds of senior feed and 2 pounds of stablilized rice bran.  I would like to start giving her your Weight Check Oil and am wondering if I should continue with the rice bran.  They also receive the Red Cal.

 I just wanted to add that last summer (2009) my other mare struggled with scratches.  I treated her ALL summer long with little success.  We live in Northern Wisconsin and have had the rainiest summer on record.  I thought for sure with all the rain (this year) that she would have horrible scratches again.,  She did not have one episode with scratches.  The only thing different this summer is that she is eating plain oats instead of processed feed and I started her on Red Cal.

Thank you so much,


Thanks for sharing about the scratches and our products making a difference! You won't need the rice bran for sure. Consider adding our Just Add Oats supplement to the diet too.

Thanks again for sharing and asking Carrie!

Pam asks about horse with fecal liquor…

Hi Dr. Dan,
 I have a 13 year old Hanoverian that has loose stools and squirts fecal liquor that runs down his legs.  If he has gas, the fecal liquor squirts out.

 Sometimes his stools will be formed but soft other times they will be very loose but not soupy.  This has been an ongoing problem for several years.  It cleared when I moved him to a different place for one year.  I moved him back to the same place and he was fine for about one year and now the problem is back again.  

The vet doesn't seem that concerned about it, but I am.  When the liquor squirts he will get anxious as he passes the gas and then calms right after.  I have tried just about everything I can think of and have researched continously.  I have used all types of wormers and none help.  I have used several types of probiotics, no improvement.  

I have used psyllium, no change.  I stopped all supplements, no change.  He gets timothy and bermuda hay.   I tried herbs, vitamins, grapefruit seed extract, clay, bentonite, diatamacous earth, digestive aids, oat bran, oat flour, b vitamins, natural anti-inflammatories, enzymes, Kocci Free and anything else that might help.  I have found nothing that helps.  He appears normal, eats well, is exercised regularly, has fresh water daily, turnout, etc.  He is a happy horse other than this issue. He lives in a 40×60 sand paddock.

I am at my wits end. Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.   Let me know if you need further information.  

Thank you,

I see many with such. If you will follow the feeding advise at to the "T" and info at chances are great you will have a new horse.

Since this has been going on so long and so many things have been used you will need to add for additional support our Gut Check supplement (so much more than probiotics) and our Aller Check (to help get rid of all the past junk such s dewormers etc and help the gut itself too) No other supplements or food except the oats and what suggested her. Deworming only if positive fecal results too.

Thanks for asking. Get back with me after a month or so on the above.

Sheridan asks about “scratches” with her horse…

Dear Dr. Dan I am reading all different treatments for scratches – what do you recommend?
Many thanks,
Sheridan T.

Hello Sheridan,

Others may say otherwise, but Scratches, in my opinion, is the body attempting to discharge something through the skin, the bodies largest organ. The key is to help the body get rid of such junk, not put more back in and support the immune system.  To accomplish this I always suggest our "Health Check" supplement.

But please note that the BIGGEST source of such "junk" is commercial feed with hydrogenated fats etc. I don't know what your feeding program is, but I also always suggest following our feeding program which you can learn much more about at the easy-to-remember site and follow it to the "T". No commercial feed at all.

To further support the immune system I suggest our "Aller Check" supplement (somewhat pricey but is awesome!).

Regardless of what others might say, The problem is not a fungus and treating such only makes worse.

Of course, vaccinate, deworm etc with chemicals and other sources of toxins as little as you feel comfortable with. We do fecals.  Topically, I would only use our Grape Balm herbal would healer. It is ugly and stinks but works great.

There is an audio in my online library about Thrush and White Line (all similar to scratches) that you might enjoy listening to at You can also see other questions/answers dealing with Scratches at:

Scratches are not easy Sheridan and can be a pain, but by focusing on working on it "inside-out" has helped hundreds if not thousands through the years.

Keep us posted and thanks for asking!

Dr. Dan

Check out these helpful links:

The Natural Horse Vet Magazine:

What To Feed Your Horse?

Dr. Dan's Library:

The Natural Vet On The Net:

Martha with question about her 9 Yr. Old Foxtrotter gelding

Hi Dr Dan,

I have a 1/2 quarter 1/2 fox trotter gelding about 9yr old. He always looks thin through the hips an spine, I feed open pasture plus always have fresh 1200lb round bale of clover mix available. I worm on a schedule with my vet but I think he looks thin, everyone else in the neighborhood thinks my horses are fat. Is this just his breeding or am I missing something? I grain only in the winter as they are not worked but just pets, yes we ride but not enough these days its to hot and Charlie doesnt like to sweat.

Thank you-  Martha

Hello Martha,

If he doesn't sweat I would seriously look at the minerals he is not getting. Truth is that today a horse can't get all he needs from grass or hay. Our soils where grass and hay grow are just deficient….period. They have plenty of fertilizer in them but all those other minerals on the periodic chart we learned in high school just aren't there. Also vitamins are few and far between as are good fats deficient.  Please look the website Bottom line horses today must be supplemented. See the article about salt and minerals on page 21 of the magazine and the one called "perfect pastures" too.

I really suggest at a minimum our Red Cal free choice, our product called Just Add Oats (just a handful of oats needed to add the supplements to).  Our Weight Check Oil is a real must to either lose or gain weight.  2 oz help lose and maintain. More will help gain.

Also please look over It may give you an unique view point on "regular deworming".

Thanks for asking! I hope you enjoy the articles, videos etc.

The Natural Horse Vet Magazine:

What To Feed Your Horse?

Dr. Dan's Library:

The Natural Vet On The Net:

answered Tasia’s question about her Mounted Patrol Horse

I have a ten year old Rocky Mountain named Mikey that has been riding mounted security patrol with me for six years. (He is actually very well known throughout The Woodlands because of the tricks he does and his awesome incredible personality!) I was a barefoot advocate before I took the job, but it was either put the shoes on or work somewhere else, so I asked them to start thinking about a rubber coated steel instead of the borium they had used and got a compromise from them..but that is not where I was going with this.

Mikey has never missed a day of work in our six years until two months ago. This horse…well, eats, alot while working…I feel it is the way God made him, to eat thru-out the day. He eats, or was eating, carrots, apples, cubes (alphalfa) as treats throughout the day, and then would have Safe Choice, 1 scoop, three times a day along with two handfuls of Stay Stron twice a day (i really love that stuff). I do not stall my horses.

They get to be horses. So, we had four days off beginning of June. My dad had fertilized a month or so before with no rain. Then, we had lots of rain about the same time we were off. I go to get him to go to work, which btw is usually a 10 hour day,  and he can barely walk. Took about a week to dx. (won't go there). Founder, (.8 on one foot and 4.6 on the other) probably due to grass. He stayed with vet three days then my farrier put steel shoe with gel padding and he's in eighth week with one change of shoes/padding. Many questions, I guess. Mike loves his job, or rather, the attention he gets from his job, but as a Rocky, he really "pounds the pavement", ie, nothing ever really slow about this horse even walking, never running, but I do allow him to gait and if he is in a hurry to go to the potty spot (yes, they are potty trained), I have allowed him to lope.

Should he ever go back to work, even part time? Should I pull these special shoes off of him and let him heal w/o the shoes even though It hurts him to stand on them? How often should I get an xray to see how he's doing? I enjoy my job almost as much as Mikey does, but I don't EVER want…his health to suffer because of me…I have a mare I can take to up there to work, but she seems to…not really show emotions..she will pretty much do what i ask, but then not eat her feed or Stay Strong for 3 days after, and I don't know what to do about that either.


Do I just need to get another job? And if so, are you hiring! LOL,

Thanks, Tasia


I have lots of foundered horses that get back to "whatever". In fact, I can only think of a few out of hundreds and hundreds that haven't. I only wish you had read my articles ("Laminitis", Mineral Wise Salt Poor"-page 20, "Perfect Pastures" all in the magalog)….also wished you had found and watched my videos in the library section of the website BEFORE all this happened.

Right now personally I would get rid of the shoes for now.

I would follow the feeding advice on to the "T" and add for support the Joint Check supplement. Additionally I would add the Critical Care Laminitis   formula since he is painful. Get him off all the other supplements and feed. If you don't have "new horse" with time of course that greatly varies I will be very surprised. The Critical care is the only pricey product but like your horse "there just isn't anything like it"

Hang in there and do not give up.. If anything will help nutritionally the above will but do follow the advice to the letter.

Thanks for asking

Dr Dan
Check out these helpful links:

The Natural Horse Vet Magazine:

What To Feed Your Horse?

Dr. Dan's Library:

The Natural Vet On The Net:

A Tip to Jean with a horse that blows and plays with the RED CAL…


If I  leave the red cal out for free feeding,  I have one horse who plays in it and wastes it.   He blows it and it comes out of the bucket and scatters.     Is there a way I can add it to their daily feeding?   I have tried putting a couple of ounces at the sides of their individual feed tubs at night ( in their stalls) and it is gone the next morning. 

Red-Cal (25lb.)






Only put an inch or so of RED CAL  in the bucket. Wet it or let it rain on it (tip the water off the top after the rain). With only an inch or so and wet they can blow it out and it actually sticks to the bucket when tipped too. It is fine to put on the feed (a tablespoon or so a day) but the real preventive health is still having available free-choice. See the article on page 20 in the magazine (link below) and also at What To Feed Your Horse link below.


Thanks For Asking!

The Natural Horse Vet Magazine:

What To Feed Your Horse?

Dr. Dan's Library:

The Natural Vet On The Net:

Kathy asks about treating rain rot…

I was told once that when treating rain rot bleach and listerine mixed together but I don't remember the dilution of that. I am waiting for the owner of the horse to send money to pick up fungus shampoo for the horse but do you have something natural that you can recommend that I might have laying around the house to use?

Looking forward to hearing from you.

Hi Kathy,

I would never suggest any "fungus" shampoo or ointment or any chemical at all. Fungus is not the issue. If it were, as contagious as fungus is, ALL horses would have.

The key is the immune system and I have found that the body is trying to actually "discharge" "junk" for lack of a better descriptive term. Junk is from commercial feed, dewormers, vaccines and all the other toxins and synthetics we expose our horses too so…

All that being said they key to successful long term treatment is to help the body get rid of this "junk", not put more back in and support the immune system. We do that with the feeding program at Follow it to the "T" for long term health. Deworm (do fecals instead… See, vaccinate etc as little as you feel comfortable with so as to not put more back in. Help the body get rid of the "junk" with our supplement called health Check and support the immune system with joint Check. You will have a new horse. Topically you can use our grape balm herb wound healer will not interfere with the body trying to get rid of the junk as would other topicals.

Thanks for asking!

(also more questions and answers about 'rain rot" here: )

Marilyn asks about her horse with “scratches”…

Dr. Dan

Apparently my horse has a case of scratches.  I just found it last night.  I see on the net there are so many thoughts on it.  He wasn't in mud and isn't in mud, so I can't figure out why this happened, too much moisture in the grass he was standing on perhaps??  What and how to treat?  I am also looking in your archives to see if I can find something.  I don't want it to spread.  

Thanks. Marilyn

Hi Marilyn,

Scratches has little to do with mud. In my opinion it is the body attempting to discharge something through the skin, the bodies largest organ. Forget the fungus issue. If it were fungus only all horses exposed would have it. The key is to help the body get rid of such junk, not put more back in and support the immune system. To help get rid of such I suggest the Health check supplement. The biggest source of such "junk" is commercial feed with hydrogenated fats etc. I suggest following our feeding program at to the "T". No commercial feed at all. To support the immune system I suggest the Aller Check supplement (somewhat pricey but awesome). Of course vaccinate, deworm etc with chemicals and other sources to toxins as little as you feel comfortable with. We do fecals.  Topically I would only use our Grape balm herbal would healer. It is ugly and stinks but works great. Fungal products,bleach etc only make worse. Scratches are not easy and can be a pain but the above has helped hundreds if bot thousands. Thanks for asking!

Rhoda asks about help for her rescued 7 year-old Thoroughbred

Hi Dr. Dan,

I am at a loss as to what to do for my 7 year-old Thoroughbred.  I've had him less than a year.  He was a rescue, was nearly starved a little over a year ago, but now is doing well.  I've had him for 9 mos. and accordingy to our vet is allergic to flies.  He eats alphalpha and tri-mix supplemented w/ omelene and oat bran.  I have tried everything on the market to help decrease his suffering from chronic itching and biting.  I was inspired when I found you on the web.  

Can you make this easy for me, and recommend what products you carry that you would recommend to help provide him comfort.  Like all of us, we have been hit hard by the economy and would like to try to keep this within a manageable budget.  I really liked what you had to say but don't have a clue where to start.  I really hope I hear back from you and can provide relief to my beloved horse.  

Rhoda R.

Hi Rhoda,

Hope the best for you all here… follow the feeding program at to the "t"… no commercial feed or other supplements…. just oats (gradually switch to same amount of grain now feeding). to these oats add Just Add Oats supplement and weight check oil supplement. Also make Red Cal available free choice at all times. Add Aller check for immune support and Health Check to help get rid of all the junk already in the system. I expect you will have a new horse soon. This has helped for so many I would be surprised if not for yours too. there are articles on the web and in the magazine, there is an video and audio in the library section. and feel free to search for allergies.  

Thanks for asking!


Brenda with an update on Megan for us all…


Hi Dr Dan,
Just thought you would like an update on my little girl Megan……..after only 4 months her thyroid levels are in normal ranges. She loves her whole oats with Weight Check Oil and Just for Oats diet! I saw positive attitude and activity results in just weeks but the truth was in her blood work. I do believe your supplements and especially your Critical Care OHI have saved her life. We've gotten back in the showpen and she's so willing and happy and responsive.

It's been an amazing change of so many things with her prior condition. Please pass me along if anyone is having doubt about making these changes to diet and such. I followed your every direction and I'm so glad I listened to your advice and challenged the norm!!
And you know what…as pricey as the changes seemed in the beginning(as you know I went full boat), it was far cheaper than vet bills and prescription fees and the risks with the usual medications.

Thank you Dr Dan!
Brenda K.
How much longer should I keep her on the Critical Care OHI formula?
She has lost pretty much all her weight that she needed to loose but is still a little bit cresty on the neck only and that seems to still be diminishing…no longer at the dock at all…….
Thanks so much for sharing Brenda- that is great news for sure!

After the crest is gone for a month or so u can stop CC.

Again thanks!

Kit had a question about Hives…

Dr. Dan,  My 3 year old horse has had hives since mid May.  

We've tried changing hay, feed, bedding, and finally sent him away for a complete change of environment.  Nothing so far has worked except keeping him on prednisilone.  We had an allergy test and apparently he is allergic to everything.  Even OATS came up as a positive!  He is highly allergic to many types of grass, oats and wheat, horse flies and no-see-ums, and pine trees.  

The vet recommends the steroids prn (so far he's needed them about every three-four days – this keeps the hives at a manageable level but not completely gone) and wait for the change of seasons to see if they clear up.  After that she says we can do injections to desensitize him.  

Do you have any suggestions?  

Thanks, Kit

Plenty. I see them every day. Lots of money spent on useless testing that as you said "allergic to EVERYTHING" you possibly can't keep a horse away from. Steroids only make matters worse by "confusing" the immune system and covering symptoms

Absolutely pay no attention to what they are "allergic" to- testing wise.  These are not the issue ….the immune system and all the junk from vaccinations, past chemicals, and especially commercial processed feeds are the problem.

We have tremendous, though not instantaneous, success with allergies. All allergies start in the gut. The skin as hives, itch etc is just trying to "discharge" the "junk". So…

First, Get this horse off all commercial feed and follow the feeding program at to the "T". This is also explained in the magazine below on page 4.    There is an article on allergies in the magazine and also a video in the library section of our website.

Even though your horse is "allergic" to oats they are the best as discussed on the feed website mentioned. . I have hundreds that have been allergic to them and done great on the oats with the proper supplements and NO adverse events. So have no fear there … They along with the supplements suggested will help and are critical.

The supplements to add to the oats discussed on the site are Just Add Oats and our good and extremely important source of healthy fatty acids Weight Check oil. Offer Red Cal free choice at all times too.

Now also Add for additional immune support the Aller Check supplement. May not need this supplement forever but critical to start. Also add the Health Check to help get rid of all the "junk" in the system.

Stop all other supplements and feed.

The above has helped hundreds and hundreds. If anything will it will. Also check out and search for allergies.

Thanks for asking! Enjoy your new horse!


Deanna asks about her 2 horses going “natural”…

Dr. Dan,

I recently was told about your products from my friend and owner of my boarding facility.  I am very interested in switching over to your products but of course, each horse has different needs and I could use your help developing a "change over" plan.    

Horse#1 – Jupiter – 8y/o appaloosa gelding used for trail riding.  He tends to be a bit on the fluffy side but is very muscular.  He recently had some shoulder lameness and we put him on adaquan injections.  Other feed and supplements are, 10% sweet feed and alpha & oat pellets (a mix of the two), strongid daily, & accel minerals.  

Horse#2 – Spirit – 5y/o TWH palomino gelding with 4 white feet used for trail riding and hopefully fox hunting.  I've only had him 2 months so we are still getting to know each other.  He was quite thin when we got him. His feed and supplements are, 10% sweet feed and alpha & oat pellets (a mix of the two), strongid daily, accel minerals and Amplify which is working well in putting some weight on him.  

Thank you for taking the time to help me.  I look forward to your reply.  

Sincerely, Deanna B.

Good News! It s an easy switch for all.

Just gradually switch from the same volume of commercial feed now feeding to the same volume of oats (whole). Take a few days to do so.

All horses will get Just Add Oats- 1 scoop per 1000 lbs or so and Weight Check Oil (one scoop or 2 oz is maintenance.. Give more to help put weight ..up to 8 oz daily but probably 4 to 6 will do great… This is good healthy fat not "junk fat" like so many products have).

All the horses need Red Cal provided "free-choice" (probably not the hi-mag version since no cresty necks or excessive overweight issues) For the horse on adequan— add for support our Joint Check supplement for support.

I would stop all other supplements,minerals and feed and for sure the daily wormer (go to for info on that). Spirit could get the health check instead of the joint check (the joint check however already has health check in it plus all the joint ingredients and the health check does cost less).

Enjoy the new horses!!! 

Thanks for asking!